Frequently Asked Questions

In most cases, it’s a good idea to own a lot or land before starting the process of building your custom home. However, it’s not always necessary.

For example, if you already have a set of house plans that you absolutely love and have decided on for your dream home, I can often find a way to make those plans work on land you purchase later. There are always ways to clear and grade land to fit a house.

That said, this approach can sometimes lead to unexpected costs. If budget considerations are a priority, it’s usually better to purchase your land first and then tailor your house plans to the specific features and layout of the property.

This is a very important question, and it’s also a complex one. To make it easier to follow, I’ll break it down into 3 main sections. 

Section 1: Land and Vision

As mentioned in the previous question, owning your land before finalizing your house plans is often a good idea. This allows you to design a home that fits the unique characteristics of the property while making the most of your budget.

That said, it’s important to have a clear vision of the type and style of home you’d like to build. This is particularly important if you’re buying a lot in a well-established subdivision. 

Subdivisions often have a POA (Property Owners Association) or HOA (Homeowners Association) in place, which may impose restrictions. These can range from the overall design of your home to specific details like the exterior color.

If, on the other hand, you own land with no restrictions or POA/HOA in place, then you can pretty much do whatever you want. There are pros and cons to both situations.

Typically, in well-established subdivisions, utilities like water, power, and internet are available right at the roadside of your lot. Keep in mind though, the developer of any subdivision will account for the costs of providing access to those utilities by including them in the price of the lot.

If you own rural land, you will most likely need to install a well, bring in power, and cable/internet. (Of course, nowadays there are satellite options for cable and internet.) In the case of rural land, you may pay more on average to bring these services to your property. However, if privacy is important to you, and your budget allows for it, buying rural land will be very satisfying. 

Section 2: Perk Test

If you’re buying rural land, one of the first steps after your purchase will be having a Licensed Soil Scientist perform a 'Perk Test,' or Soil Analysis. This test provides the Environmental Health Department with proof that a septic system can be viably installed on your property.

This is the first thing you would need to do once you have a good idea as to where on the property you’d like to build your home.

If you buy a lot in a subdivision, usually the Perk Test has already been performed. From my experience, a Perk Test generally costs around $400.00. 

Section 3: Procedures and Permits

Since I do most of my custom home building in Gilmer County, I’ll speak to their procedures and requirements.

The following list is pretty much in the order of precedence after one has bought land and has a completed set of house plans. You can’t start the permitting process without a set of house plans and land. 

a. Site Location Inspection:
This is performed by Gilmer County and is done so the county can confirm the house location is within said property line setbacks. You may have to hire a Surveyor in order to confirm property lines.

b. Septic System Inspection:
As long as the Perk Test was successful and the Site Location Inspection was approved, you now can apply for a Septic Permit. You will need a completed set of house plans, the Soil Analysis document, and payment for the inspection fee.

In Gilmer County, septic system inspection fees for new installations are based on the total square footage of the structure, ranging from $150 for homes 1,000 sq ft or less to $500 for those 5,001 sq ft or greater. These fees cover both the inspection and permitting process.

c. Building Permit:
Okay, now you have your approved Septic Permit and are ready to apply for the Building Permit. You will need a copy of the Septic Permit, Property Deed, and a completed set of house plans.

Building permit fees are based on the finished floor square footage, so the cost will vary according to your home. However, to help give you an idea, in August 2024, I started building a 2,000 sq ft home with an unfinished basement, and the permit was just under $1,000.

This is a difficult question to answer accurately because several variables affect the final cost of drilling a well:

1. Depth of the Well:
The depth of the well can be the most costly aspect; the deeper they need to drill, the more it will cost. Right now, the well drillers I use charge $18.00 per linear foot. So for example, if you end up with a well that’s 350 feet deep, you’re looking at approximately $6,300 to dig the well.

2. Recovery Rate:
Once the well is dug, it needs to be tested to determine how much water it produces naturally, before a pump is installed. This is known as the recovery rate and is measured in GPM (Gallons Per Minute). If the GPM is too low, say about 1 quart per minute, the well may need to be fracked, which can cost an additional $5,000.

3. Well System Components:
The well will also require the installation of a pump, pressure tank, pipe, and wiring. The cost for these will vary according to quality, materials used, and specific site requirements like the depth of the well and the distance from the well to the home. In general, the total costs for these components can range from approximately $1500 - $5200.

4. Filtration System:
If you want to add a high-grade water filtration system, that could contribute another $2,000 to the total cost.

Well, I hope this info has been helpful and not overwhelming for you. Truth be said, this whole area sits atop the Piedmont aquifer. Most wells are good quality water and it’s not unusual to have a well that is less than 300 feet deep, with 3 GPM.

Considering all these factors, you can see how the total cost can reach around $15,000. To be on the safe side, I’d recommend keeping at least $12,000 in mind when budgeting for a well.

The cost will depend on the distance between the closest power source to the transformer set on your property.

With that in mind, you have two options for bringing power onto your property: overhead or underground.

Option 1: Overhead Power
I don’t know anyone who chooses the overhead option anymore. There was a time when it was cheaper, but times have changed.

For example, if the power company needs to run lines 1,000 feet from the nearest power transmission line to the transformer on your property, overhead installation would require a 40-foot easement. Every tree within that 40-foot easement would need to be cut down, and the power company would then set power poles down the center of that cleared area.

Not only is it costly to clear a 40 ft x1,000 ft area of trees, likely several thousand dollars, but it’s also visually unappealing to have power poles running through your property.

Option 2: Underground Power
The underground option is much more appealing and often more cost-effective. The easement required for underground power is only 12 feet, and the lines will usually follow the driveway. The cost for underground installation is about $8.50 per linear foot.

This scenario typically applies to properties with a significant amount of land. However, if your house is close to the road, say 200 feet away from power poles already lining the road, the situation changes.

In this case, a transformer can often be installed on an existing power pole. From there, all I need to do is bury conduit from the pole to your house meter base, which typically costs about $2,500. (I always include these expenses when calculating the total cost to build a home.)

As long as we are comparing apples to apples, meaning both homes have the same finish detail, and the finished floor square footage is identical, then a two-story home will always be less expensive than a one-story home.

There are two main reasons for this:

1. Foundation Costs: The foundation for a two-story home will cost almost half as much as a one-story home of the same size.

2. Roof Costs: Similarly, the roof cost for a two-story home will also be nearly cut in half.

There are other variables that could come into play, depending on the complexity of the design of the house. But, in general, it is always cheaper to build up rather than out. 

Typically, a monolithic concrete slab, commonly known as a slab foundation, is the least expensive foundation. They generally range from $4 to $7 per sq. ft. For a 2,000 sq. ft. home, this amounts to approximately $8,000 to $14,000.

The next step up in cost would be a crawl space foundation. They generally range from $6 to $12 per sq. ft. For a 2,000 sq. ft. home, the cost would be approximately $12,000 to $24,000.

The next step up after that, and almost always the most expensive option, would be a full basement foundation. They generally range from $25 to $35 per sq. ft. For a 2,000 sq. ft. home, this translates to approximately $50,000 to $70,000.

However, it doesn’t always work that simply. A lot depends on the lay of the land itself, the footprint of the house, and, again, the complexity of the design.

For example, let’s say the footprint of the house is a simple 40 ft x 50 ft which equates to 2,000 sq. ft. Let’s also assume the lay of the land only has a slope of 1 ft on 50 ft (1 foot over a distance of 50 feet). That scenario is perfect for a monolithic concrete slab. Very little grading would be necessary, and it would be an easy final grade so that all rain water is turned away from the house.

Now, let’s take the same footprint and say the lay of land has a slope of 10 ft on 50 ft. That is a nightmare scenario for a monolithic concrete slab. It’s not that it can’t be done, but the costs would skyrocket. Tons of dirt would have to be removed from the building site and put somewhere, or hauled off the project site. Then, you’d have to build a 10 ft high concrete retaining wall, likely 100 ft long, just to establish a stable building site. In this case, the monolithic concrete foundation would most likely cost even more than a full basement foundation. 

This is why I always take a good look at the lay of the land and advise the homeowner on the most cost-effective type of foundation for their specific property.

Yes! I always advise my prospective clients not to scrimp in three main areas:

1. HVAC System
Usually, within reason, the higher SEER rating is worth the extra money you’ll spend on it. The payback is often within 2–3 years, and after that, it’s pure savings.

2. Windows and Doors
Most modern window and door manufacturers offer double-pane, argon gas-filled, Low-E glass as a standard feature. You can get triple-pane, but it’s very expensive. I’ve found that the best bang for your buck is fiberglass-clad windows and fiberglass-framed doors.

3. Insulation
This is probably the most important area where you can make a real difference. There are three main types of insulation:

Fiberglass Batt: This has been around for decades but is the least efficient of the three.

Blown-In Cellulose: A better option than Fiberglass Batt, but over time, gravity causes it to settle and compact inside the wall cavities, leaving air gaps at the top. It’s still fine for ceilings, though.

Spray Foam: Spray foam, especially open-cell, has become very cost-effective and offers incredible insulation value to a home.

One of the reasons it makes such a good insulation is the way it’s applied. It’s sprayed in the walls of course, but it’s also sprayed between the roof rafters up against the roof decking. This creates a complete insulation envelope for your home, much like the insulation in coolers we bring to ball games or camp sites.

Now, what I’m about to tell you isn’t something you’ll need to worry about if you work with me, but it’s good information to have.

There are two types of spray foam insulation: open-cell and closed-cell.

Open-cell spray foam has an advantage over closed-cell because it’s not waterproof. Closed-cell spray foam is waterproof, which may seem beneficial, but it can hide problems.

Imagine that an inexperienced builder mistakenly forgets the critical step of inspecting for roof leaks before installing closed-cell spray foam. A small missed gap in the roof allows rain water in, but the waterproof foam traps it, causing hidden damage over time. Years later, the homeowners discover their roof is rotting, leading to costly repairs.

With open-cell spray foam, the water would have passed through, making the leak immediately visible and much easier to address.

Again, that’s not something you’ll need to worry about if you work with me. I perform thorough inspections on every home I build to ensure there are no leaks before insulation is ever installed.

Yes! Cement board products are a great alternative. They’ve stood the test of time for durability, aesthetic appeal, and fire resistance. Plus, insects won’t touch them.

Over the years, cement board has become even more versatile. You can get it in traditional lap siding, board and batten, or even a cedar shake look. In fact, you can do all three on one house and get one heck of a good looking home. Trim for doors, windows, and fascia boards also come with a wood grain finish for added detail.

And if that’s not enough, I work with a painter who can make wood grain cement board look even more like real wood. It won’t be identical, but it’s pretty darn close!

Well, that’s an easy one - almost everything! Here are a few comparison examples:

• Flooring: LVT flooring over hardwood (carpet is the least expensive).
• Countertops: Laminate countertops over granite or solid surface.
• Cabinetry: Lower-grade cabinets instead of high-end options.
• Walls & Ceilings: All drywall, no wood.
• Windows: Vinyl windows instead of fiberglass clad or aluminum clad.
• Exterior Doors: Steel doors instead of fiberglass or wood.
• Interior Doors: Hollow core, paint-grade only instead of solid core or stain-grade wood doors.
• Door & Window Trim: Paint-grade only instead of stain-grade or natural wood trim.
• Fixtures & Finishes: “Builder-grade” door hardware, plumbing faucets, and electrical fixtures. (Okay, I’ve never liked that term, but that is what they call it.)

I guess you get the idea. You’ll notice I didn’t mention framing or roofing, that’s because framing has to be done to code and must be completed correctly, no if’s, and’s, or but’s. Roofing has some room for savings, but it usually isn’t worth it and I wouldn't recommend it.

The cost of building a custom home can vary quite a bit depending on factors like land prep, foundation type, home size, materials, and any special features you want to include. 

I know no one likes the “it depends” answer, so as long as you keep what I shared above in mind, here’s a good baseline.

A high-grade custom home can start at around $325 per square foot (for heated and cooled finished square footage).

This example price would include premium features like granite countertops, medium-grade appliances and flooring, and accented wood walls and ceilings with faux beams and rafters to give it that true mountain rustic appeal. It also includes upgraded plumbing and electrical fixtures, solid wood interior doors stained and clear-coated to show off the natural wood grain, and wood grain fiberglass exterior doors finished to bring out the richness of the entryways.

It would also include fiberglass-clad windows with clear Douglas Fir interiors, a tile backsplash in the kitchen, and under-cabinet lighting for a nice touch. The bathrooms and kitchen would have tile floors, and there would be a stone fireplace, wood-burning or gas logs, topped with a natural wood mantel.

Outside, the home would have Craftsman-style cement board siding, painted to look like real wood, plus gable treatments to add a little extra mountain flavor to the exterior. And of course, a good sized porch and open deck to enjoy those family get-togethers and take in the view.

That is a “Turn-Key” price, and also includes all of the following:

• Full unfinished basement.
• Septic system installation.
• All clearing and grading of the home site.
• Removal of any trees that are within a 10'-20' buffer zone around the house.
• A gravel driveway (approx. 100 feet).
• Completely Turn-Key, ready for move-in.

Again, your final cost could be higher or lower depending on all the factors we’ve talked about. If you’d like a more personalized answer, feel free to give me a call at 770-778-2997 or send me a message through the Contact Form.  I'm happy to give you a ballpark range based on your specific needs.

There are two main types of contracts. One is called a “Stipulated Sum Basis for Construction on Owner's Land,” which I like to simply call a “Turn Key” or “Fixed Price” contract. It pretty much means the same thing. However, there are some subdivisions where the cost of the land is already included in the price. But that’s usually a situation where you have to pick from one of several different models available from the developer or owner of the subdivision.

The other is called a “Cost Plus a Fee Basis for Construction on Owner’s Land.” There are actually a few different versions of this type of contract, but for now, let’s just discuss two basic variations.

First, I like to simply call this type of contract a “Cost Plus” contract. A Cost Plus contract can be set up as Cost Plus a “Percentage” or Cost Plus a “Set Fee.” Whether “Percentage” or “Set Fee,” this is how my builder's fee is calculated.

Whereas, a “Turn Key” or “Fixed Price” contract is a bit simpler. I will come up with a price to build the entire house from the ground up and have it ready for you to move in, hence the name “Turn Key.” Whatever the agreed-upon price is, that’s all you will have to pay me to complete the building of your house.

Now, it should be mentioned that my contracts and another builder’s contract may differ greatly. That said, most contracts cover the same key points, just worded a little differently

What’s really important to me when signing contracts is that both parties involved are well-informed and completely understand what they are signing. I do my best to explain my contracts in great detail, which does take some time. There are a lot of parts and pieces to these contracts and it’s important that everything is discussed, considered, and well thought out before signing.

Wondering which contract type is right for you?

Read my full blog article for more details here: Custom Home Building Contracts Explained: Cost Plus vs. Turn Key Pricing